After a red eye flight which I skipped the dinner, I arrived back to Haneda Tokyo Airport. The city looked brighter than the last time due to the different season, and it was a welcomed change as well from hazy Singapore to clear and cleaner air.
At the airport, there is a registration to get a pass for access into over 200,000 hotspots across Japan! That is actually not a lot, but was a vast improvement from nothing earlier on. After purchasing my train ticket, I took the Keikyu line straight to Shinagawa station where I deposited my luggage. At Shinagawa station was also where I got the Suica, which is the local version of the metro and train card. This is essentially a must have to save the troubles of queuing for single trip tickets.
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| Haneda train station |
After grabbing some simple breakfast, it was straight to Asakusa station. There, I collected my pre-purchased Nikko 2 days pass. This ticket must be purchased at least 4 days in advance. As the next available train was an hour away, I explored the vicinity and found myself back at Sensoji Gate. This time, there were lotsa hunky rickshaw drivers drawing crowds of ladies to ogle at them. All I could hear from the Chinese tourists was 小鲜肉!
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| my lunch |
Finally arrived at Tobu Nikko station! The sky was cloudy and the wind was chilly. The air was, however, very fresh. It was a welcomed change from the hazy Singapore air due to the burning Indonesian forests. After getting my bearings correct at the tourist information counter and obtaining the free wifi details, I boarded the tourist bus into the heart of the World Heritage ancient city of Nikko!
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| tourist bus interior |
First stop was the Shinkyo Sacred Bridge. This red wooden bridge was magnificent because it crosses over a raging gorge of bluish green spring water. It's a pity one side ended on a vehicular road.
The walk to the next attraction was a nice stone path slope that was lined by tall luscious trees so huge I felt tiny amongst these giants.
Rinnoji Temple was the next attraction. Unfortunately it was covered with aluminum claddings due to restorative works (all the way until 2020). Still, the displays including several original Buddha status and the origin of Nikko provided an interesting insight. The exhibition also provided a glimpse of the restoration process and a very rare high level view of the surrounding hills and city. As it was almost autumn, some leaves were starting to change color as well!
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| Rinnoji Temple facade |
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| atop Rinnoji Temple |
Just beside was the famous Toshugo Shrine at YEN 1,300 per person. This is the home of the original 3 Monkeys wooden carvings, as well as magnificent structures dating centuries ago. Everyone seemed to be obsessed with the monkey carvings with huge crowds around.
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| the famous 3 monkeys |
Part of the Toshugo Shrine was under restorative work, but it's overall majesty cannot be ignored. Huge structures rising in the middle of thick forest. There was a side gate that led to climbing a steep slope of stairs to another world of stone structure temple and objects. It was surreal climbing these stairs surround by old thick and tall trees. Even the drizzle failed to dampen everyone's mood!
At the main complex was a carving of a cat. Apparently, cat is famous here, and I understand from my friend Nikko actually means Cat in Japanese! A tour guide was explaining to the group that this was the picture of the Stripping Cat. Everyone was shocked! But this was eventually clarified, as it's supposed to be Sleeping Cat (due to mispronunciation)
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| sleeping cat |
As I walked towards Taiyun Temple, the drizzle began to intensify. Many umbrellas were up. You would think this would dampen the spirit but it didn't. The rain actually improved the natural aromas of the forest, making it a more therapeutic walk!
The rain was at its heaviest at Taiyun Temple, but nothing my trusty cap could not handle. Taiyun is smaller than Toshugo Shrine, but less crowded. It had a gate that was plated with pure gold. The ritual washing area also showed the source of the water flowing from the hills itself.
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| golden facade at Taiyun Temple |
I was left in awe when I took the shuttle bus back to Nikko town. These magnificent structures withstood centuries, and still well preserved.
I checked into Sumica Guesthouse, my first bunk stay since 2008 back in London. Luckily it was a small 3 beds per room arrangement. I had a French and Japanese guy as bunk mate.
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| Sumica Guesthouse |
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| snack shop |
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| pre-dinner snack |
Dining in Nikko turned out to be a nightmare! Almost all are closed and I had to resort to the supermarket for a sushi takeaway instead. At least the sushi tasted nice, and at YEN 880, it's a steal compared back home. It was an early sleep
at 7pm for me, and a very nice and deep one due to the rain and cold temperature.
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