Monday, November 12, 2007

Spatrachina Volume Two

Shanghai Stadium Tourist Bus Centre
My first day of my China Route Trip brought me to the river township of Tongli. Woke up really early to catch the 8.00am bus from the Shanghai Stadium. Even though it was a weekday, the bus terminal was still packed with holiday makers, going to a variety of destinations such as Tongli, Zhouzhuang, Nanxun, Suzhou etc.
Bus Terminal

The Crowd at the Bus Terminal

After 1 hour, I finally reached Tongli. The outer layer of the village was rather commercial, with new buildings and residential houses dotting the landscape. The ancient flavour began to unfold once the electric tram stopped at the entrace to the river town. A wave of rustic aroma began to fill my senses. 2 rows of stores selling their famous 'Scholar Trotters' aka JuangYuanTi were gleaming with the spot lights on the shiny trotters' skin. Ancient buildings and riverscape made my first impression of the village a memorable one. The grey skies brought along an ancient era way back a few hundred years ago.

Map of Tongli Village

My Electric Tram from Tongli Visitor Centre

Tongli Old Village

Streets of Tongli

In Tongli, I met a French guy by the name Reno. As we were both on solo trips, we decided to join forces and tackle Tongli together. However, as we were chatting and strolling, we kinda missed the way and stumbled into the back alleys of the village. But what a refreshing change it was! The back alleys were not as vibrantly coloured, but were covered in a grey hue. Old folks did their household chores and discussions in this brick layed, narrow lanes not more than 2 meters wide. It's like discovering Tongli, but at a deeper level, discovering the emotions and people of this wonderfully crafted river township.

Old Man Sharpening knife

Old Women Sitting around

Gate to Alley

Weathered Walls

Sitting By

Narrow Streets

Our 1st attraction was the Chinese Muesum of Sexual Culture. Yup, that's right, it's a muesum all about the sexual cultures of China. A major global attraction of this small town that not many knows. The exhibits were explicitly displayed, with nudities and worship symbols all over the compound. My new found fren, Reno, and I were amazed and surprised by the cultural openess of the ancient Chinese world with the daring exhibits.

"Dick-Head"

Horse Sex

Three-some

Sexual Position

Sexual Position

Figurines
Figurines
Chinese Karma-Sutra
Posing with a big Penis
Lunch time came, and we had the famous "Scholar Trotters" with rice for lunch. This was my 1st true meal of my China Routetrip. It was a big, fat and juicy piece of trotters cooked to perfection. I dont really like the thick layer of fat though, but still put it in my mouth. The meat was not really soft, but the fat did melt in my mouth. It was definitely a high cholestrol meal, but it certainly will not be the last of such meals in China for me.

Me and Reno at our Lunch Place
Scholar's Trotters

After such a big lunch, we went to Tuisi Garden for a walk. Tuisi Garden is the star attraction amongst all other attractions in Tongli. It is the biggest and most elaborated garden in this river village. The iconic red wooden structures were the highlights of the gardens. But the waterscape stole the show away. The pond was filled with several orange fishes, with the small bridges and pavilions and the autumn tress completing a picture perfect view. It was definitely the most popular amongst visitors, with several snapping tens of photos in the area.

Tuisi Garden- Hall

Iconic Red Structures of Tuisi Garden
The pond at Tuisi Garden
The Pond at Tuisi Garden
Hordes of 'Tangerine' fishes
At the entrance of Tuisi Garden

Video of Tuisi Garden
Time flew really fast when u are enjoying and taking in the fresh air. Very soon, I bade my French fren goodbye and rushed to Tongli's bus station, hoping to buy a ticket to another river village, Zhouzhuang. I had no idea how to get there, but I assumed that since these 2 villages are pretty close to each other, there should be a bus service to ferry people. And Bingo! There was a direct service to the unorthodox entrance of Zhouzhuang.
Tongli Drama Stage

Tongli Village: Boats
Tongli Village: Fishing

Tongli Village: River Cruises
Tongli Bus Terminal

Tongli City Street

Tongli Bus Station


My Bus to Zhouzhuang

After alighting the bus, I took a 10 min walk to the back door of Zhouzhuang, passing by river houses and boat restaurants. The entrance cost me RMB 100, and I had to bring the ticket to the village centre to have my face photo imprinted on the ticket. The brief walk exposed me to the heart and soul of Zhouzhuang. As it was rather late, most of the tour groups were about to leave. Several parts of this famous village (also known as China's Number 1 River Village) were clam and quiet. Store keepers were chatting with each other, residents doing their chores by the river. Just outside the main entrance was the modern town centre. I checkin to my hotel, Zhouzhuang Hotel, but not without bargaining. I got the price of RMB 260 from the internet, but then I reached there, the counter price was RMB 460. Shocked to see the price, I told the receptionist that the price was way too high, and that I saw on internet the price of RMB 200. Immediately she agreed to my calling. Darn! I should have asked for RMB 150! Anyway, the room was decent and spacious. I lay on the bed, wanting to rest for a few minutes, but instead I dozed off into slumberland soon after.

Zhouzhuang: China's Number 1 River Village
Boats by the River
My face on my Zhouzhuang ticket

Waking up at 6pm, I readied myself for a night tour of Zhouzhuang. The night was dark and was illuminated by the electric powered lanterns along the cobbled stone walkways. The place became a different flavour suddenly. I saw people getting ready for dinner, or closing their stores. the town has become a magical ancient wonderland with the lights casting gently on the old structures.
My Room at Zhouzhuang Hotel

Zhouzhuang at nightLight at Zhouzhuang

Nightview

Bridge
Dinner was a simple affair, partly due to my late arrival to the table. The people there eat their dinner around 5-6pm, but I walked into the restaurant only at around 7.30pm when most restaurants were about to close. Thankfully I managed to get into this one. I ordered the braised puffer fish (which tasted firm and nice, but a tad pricely for such a small size), and a home style toufu (which was superbly wonderful both in texture and taste). This small dinner set me back RMB50 (SGD10), which is actually an expensive meal in local standards.
Restaurant I had my dinner
Homestyled Toufu

Braised Puffer Fish

I turned in really early that night. Sleeping on my king-sized bed, I felt blissed that I finally get to get some real sleep. I also felt blissed that I have finally taken this step to embark on a long holiday after so many years of deliberation.


Zhouzhuang Hotel



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