Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Spatrachina Volume Four

Waking up from a comfy nite's sleep was really difficult, but I had no choice. After 9 hrs of sleep (I had intended to have 10 at least), I dragged myself out of my King sized bed for a quick shower to freshen meself. Today's itinerary will be relaxing as well, visiting 2 attractions before catching a train back to Shanghai. The 1st stop: Han Shan Temple aka Cold Mountain Temple


Incense Burning

Buddha Statute
It's amazing that even during this off-peak period, there were still hordes of tourists in these popular spots. The entrance to Han Shan Temple was crowded with tour groups, both local and international tourists. I cant imagine the peak period of the Golden Week holidays in China. Han Shan Temple is a very famous temple, thanks to a poem A Night Mooring near Maple Bridge written by Zhang Ji of the Tang Dynasty. He beautifully described the midnight bell rings of the temple, which eventually became the symbol of the monastry. Anyway, upon stepping into the temple grounds, tranquility creeped in. Even with the throngs of tourist, one could easily find peace from within. The architecture, the trees, the incense burning all created a calming effect to any visitors.
Hordes of Tourists

HanShan Temple's Main Hall




Incense Urn

Rolls of Scriptures and Buddha Statues

Apart from the famous poem, the temple is also famous for the Puming Pagoda as well as its collection of bronze bells. The pagoda, constructed only in 1995, has become the iconic symbol of the whole temple, evident from the several tourist rushing to get to the 2nd level for a quick view of the temple's ground. But getting up was a task by itself. The stairways was so narrow and steep, but has to allow for duo directional flow of human traffic.. Jus imagine everyone was in their autumn wear, all plump and sturdy, squeezing with each other trying to get up, or down, the stairs.:P

Puming Pagoda

A Night Mooring near Maple Bridge

HanShan Temple Grounds

Of cos, not forgetting the star attraction of the temple, the Bronze Bells. Only one was hung for visitors to view up close and personal. The rest were lying on the ground in an obscure corner. How can one not take an opportunity to snap a photo shot?

Me with the Bell

Bell closed-up

The Bell

My 1hr 15 min tour of Cold Mountain Temple ended with a satisfying note. I headed for Suzhou's must visit attraction. A famous Song Dynasty poet once mentioned that "It's a lifelong pity if you do not visit Tiger Hill when in Suzhou. That's right, the Tiger Hill (also known as Surging Sea Hill) is at 36m high and sprawling an area some 14,100 sqm. It was like walking in a massive park filled with trees and rich in cultural heritage. The moment I stepped in, I was taken aback by the scale of the park. It looked like a lost civilisation admist very well kept and with hordes of tourist all over the place.

Entrance to Tiger Hill

Map of Tiger Hill's massive compound

At the foot of Tiger Hill

Boatmen by the river

The star attraction was the Tiger Hill Pagoda, which is also known as China's Leaning Tower. (funny so many buildings and pagoda in China claimed to be China's Leaning Tower) The pagoda was more than 1000 years old, and looked every part of it. Situated on the peak of the hill, it did look as though it will just crumble into pieces anytime.

Tiger Hill Pagoda

Another popular spot was the Sword Pool, a natural spring of water where legends say that King He of the Wu burried his collection of precious swords underneath the spring floorbeds. Well, I jus saw some very artificial bubbling of water in the very clear waters.
Sword Pool

Along the way, I met some friendly locals. Well, not exactly local locals. They are students from Nanjing here in Suzhou for a short holiday break. Their warm and hospitality took me over as they volunteered to help take photos for me, and accompany me as we explore the Tiger Hill park.

Me at Han Han Spring

Me along the steps

With my newly-made Nanjing Friends

Bamboo Forest

Amongst the tea plantation

At the entrance of the Tea Plantation

At a Pavilion

Self Taken Photo A glimpse of Tiger Hill's scenery
The new found friends have occupied my time in a very wonderful way. Their hospitality overwhelmed me, so much so that I ran late for my scheduled train to Shanghai. The train was supposed to depart at 3.30pm, but I was still mingling with my new friends up till 3pm then I got onto a cab and rush to the train station. Luck was definitely on my side that day. I managed to join the horrifyingly huge crowd to board the express train to Shanghai. The train was spacious and clean, very unlike the ones I had the last time I took a train in China. The 45 min journey was quiet and serene with the view zooming by as the sun began to set.
Suzhou Train Station
My Scheduled Train Service from Suzhou to Shanghai
The Crowd boarding the train
My Lunch for the day

Spacious Train Interior
Returning to Shanghai, I caught up with Katt, who brought me to this rather hi-class Yunnan restaurant serving superbly great tasting dishes. The night was mostly spent there in the restaurant chatting before we headed for a club area to explore the Shanghai Night Scene. Not much diff from any clubs I've been to I supposed. It's still filled with loud music and dark corners. :P

Lost Heaven: Yunnan Restaurant

Spatrachina Volume Three

Zhouzhuang, also affectionately known as China's Number 1 River Village, is a tranquil setting of bridges, old bricks and wooden houses, calm rivers and balmy trees that adorned the river-sides. The main square of Zhouzhuang was decorated with distinctive Chinese architectures and bright red lanterns, it almost felt CNY. Today's journey will take me to various attractions of this culturally rich river village.

Buildings at Zhouzhuang Square

The moment I stepped into this famous township, a buzz of activities swarmed my senses. It was still early in the morning, and the store owners were busy opening their stores. Residents were by the riverside doing their chores, boatmen were paddling their crafts in the gentle waters. It was the perfect setting for a peaceful stroll.


Washing by the river

Boatman paddling

Shop Alley

My first stop was the famous Twin Bridge. The Twin Bridge was featured in several famous paintings, and is also the symbolic structure of Zhouzhuang. However, I felt kinda letdown cos the bridges looked rather ordinary, with the lower bridge rather plain compared to the higher arched bridge. I guess in the wider context, these 2 bridges looked rather unique in that there is only this twin bridge in the whole village. My mindset started to change when I walked up the arched bridge. The view of Zhouzhuang's tranquility was at its escense atop the bridge. The greyish skies were just the perfect colour to bring out the feel of the houses which flanked on both sides of the river.
Twin Bridge
View from Twin Bridge

I began to explore the various courtyards of the village. In the past, several rich people used to reside in Zhouzhuang. They have created houses with decorated courtyards all over the village. However, I personally felt that the courtyards here fell short in comparison to Tongli's Tuisi Garden. Nonetheless, they still offer me some great photo opportunities.

Photo at one of the Courtyards

As I continued strolling through this peaceful township, drops of rain started to descend onto the roofs. The calm waters were wrinkled by tiny ripples caused by the gentle droplets. Luckily it was only a drizzle, but it did make the whole place even more beautiful and cooling. The rain subsided when I set foot atop then Shen Bridge, also known to be the oldest bridge in Zhouzhuang. I was immediately frozen to the grounds by the beautiful views that was afforded to me. One side was the view of the Twin Bridge with rows of wooden boats and swaying trees. The other side was the less commercial but tranquil river painted with a white skydrop. I stood on the bridge for at least 15 minutes, admiring the both sides before I finally uprooted my legs and continued exploring the rest of the village.
Raindrops on the river

Me on Shen Bridge


View from Shen Bridge

As I continued to explore, I chanced upon this granny with this ancient mill thing. She was spinning threads for the making of clothings. I've never seen this equipment in person before, and the way this granny spun amazed me. A few more steps and I reached this store selling Nian Gao. This balls made of gultinous rice with an assortments of fillings were pipping hot and steaming with rage as I stood there watching the owners making them. How can I not buy one and try? But seriously, though it looked tempting, it was actually quite coarse to the tongue. Too much rice and too little of the fillings.
Granny Spinning Threads

Zhouzhuang Gultinous rice ball store
Making the Rice Balls

An alley in Zhouzhuang

With my tummy filled, I visited this ancient teahouse where important people used to gather. Unfortunately, it's no longer a teahouse, but more of a muesum detailing how people used to discuss in this small teahouse (with great views of the river). A visit to the Temple cost me RMB 199. Actually it was for donations to the temple. It was requested by the Fortune teller who had explained to me my fate after I had picked this wooden stick. Well, it was a 'Shang Shang' ticket, which means really very good. States that I will not be enjoying my life for now, but from age 29-39 my life will take a turn and in my remaining years I will enjoy in comfort. Hmm.. I guess most people will get good tickets when they visit this temple, judging from the number of donations I saw in the donation book.
Me sitting at the Teahouse with the River behind me

The Temple

The Temple's Urn

Zhouzhuang's River View

After the temple visit, I took a trishaw to the bus station for a bus to Suzhou. The poor old man ferrying me for only RMB 10. But this sum is actually a huge amount in the area. We had to overcome this slope up a bridge, where I eventually had to get off to facilitate him moving the bicycle. :P Anyway, it was all for good fun for me (but serious business for him). I finally reached the bus station of Zhouzhuang. Spent RMB 18.70 for a ticket to Suzhou on this 2 by 2 seater bus. Rather squeezed, but it was alright during the 1 hour journey.

Trishaw Uncle pushing the cart with me in the seat

Zhouzhuang Bus Terminal
Arriving at Suzhou was alright. The sky was clear, but the temperature was rather low. Perhaps it was the wind. I was shivering as I tried to find my way out of the Bus Terminal. It took me quite a while before I found a cab willing to take me to my hotel, Holiday Inn, along Jiefang Road. The hotel was a lot better than I'd expected. The check-in was smooth, and the service was impeccable. They even gave me a room upgrade to a suite! Wonderful wonderful stay. Just too bad it was only for 1 night only.
Suzhou Bus Terminal
Suzhou Youlian Holiday Inn
My Hotel Suite
Upon checkin out my fabulously spacious room, I rushed out to the nearby shopping centre in search for my lunch (which was 2 hours overdue). I saw KFC and avoided it. Why would I be eating something so familiar when touring overseas? (later I would be eating KFC 3 times). I chanced upon this Da Niang Shui Jiao, which serves dumplings in assorted fillings. It was really nice and cheap: RMB 3.8o for a set of 6 dumplings. I also ordered an orange juice, but to my surprise, it was a cuppa hot orange juice. Tasted like medicine, but still bearable.
Da Niang Dumplings
My Lunch, complete with a cup of hot orange juice
Back to my spacious suite after a hearty meal of 12 dumplings, I visited the gym and pool of the hotel. The facilities were clean and new. Holiday Inn here seems like a 5 star hotel instead of the 3-4 stars representations it have in the other parts of the world. The staff were always there to help answer my queries on the directions and to the various attractions.
Hotel Pool
After my mild workout, I strolled out into the ancient city of Suzhou, which by then was litted with lights. I took a few shots of the night scene with some beautiful water reflections. The ancient town was not really ancient nomore. In fact, it was rather modern with shopping centres and fast food restaurants everywhere. I stopped by Yong He Da Wang for a hearty meal of beef noodles with a glass of soya milk and xiao long bao before commencing my way back to my luxurious room at Holiday Inn. The softness of the King sized bed really helped me doze off quickly, especially after a nice hot bath.
Yong He Da Wang
My Dinner
Suzhou Traffic
An Old Ancient Bridge reflecting the river
A decorated Bridge
Old City Walls



Suzhou City